Growing plants indoors: A beginner's guide

As someone who loves houseplants, I frequently end up chatting with people who are thinking about becoming plant owners for the first or second time. Their questions are usually something like, “Which plant should I buy?” or, “I managed to kill a cactus—what plant could possibly survive with me?”

I always enjoy seeing people excited about bringing greenery into their homes, especially when their previous attempt did not go well. Wanting to try again means they are willing to learn, pay closer attention, and perhaps develop a better understanding of their quiet green companions.

When I only have a few minutes to talk, I usually ask several simple questions. How much natural light does your home or office receive? How often are you likely to pay attention to your plants? Does your home become particularly dry or drafty during the colder months? Based on the answers, I might recommend forgiving varieties such as snake plants (Sansevieria), ZZ plants (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), or corn plants (Dracaena fragrans).

Many of these plants can tolerate periods of neglect, which makes them excellent choices for beginners and can help new plant owners gain confidence. When there is enough time for a longer conversation, I usually explain ten important factors that should be considered when growing plants indoors.

Light

Light is arguably the most essential factor in keeping a plant healthy. Plant leaves function much like natural solar panels. Through phototaxis, or movement in response to light, plants position their leaves in ways that allow them to capture the light they need.

Before buying the plant you have always wanted, take a careful look at the lighting conditions in your apartment, house, or individual room. Once you understand how much light you actually have, you can narrow your plant choices accordingly.

A friend of mine named Dave recently started filling his bedroom and office with plants and asked me to look at his growing collection. One of his English ivy plants (Hedera helix), which prefers plenty of sunlight, was trailing above his window rather than actually sitting where its leaves could receive direct light.

I explained that leaves should be thought of as highly efficient solar panels. If he were installing actual solar panels, he would naturally position them where they could receive the most sunlight rather than putting them on the wall above the windows. He immediately understood the point.

When ivy leaves cannot receive enough direct light, the plant may eventually shed some of those leaves and redirect its energy toward newer growth that has a better chance of reaching available light. The result can be long, bare stems that make the plant look unhealthy and sparse.

Even plants described as “low-light tolerant,” including Calathea and Sansevieria, still require some light to remain alive. The word “tolerant” should not be confused with “thriving.” A plant that tolerates low light does not necessarily prefer darkness.

These plants still need some ambient illumination. Fortunately, certain houseplants can also adapt well to artificial lighting, including fluorescent bulbs and LED fixtures. Chinese evergreens (Aglaonema), Dracaena, Philodendron, Sansevieria, African violets (Saintpaulia), and Nephthytis are examples of plants that can perform reasonably well under suitable artificial light.

So even if your home receives very little natural sunlight, appropriate lighting can make indoor plant growing possible.

Water

Water is another fundamental requirement for plant survival. Even plants adapted to extremely dry environments, such as cacti and many succulents, eventually require water. It is worth understanding why water is so important rather than simply remembering when to water.

Water participates in many of the plant's essential physiological processes, including growth and metabolism. Much like rivers transport materials through an ecosystem, water serves as a transportation system inside a plant.

Plants take inorganic elements from their surroundings and transform them into nutrients and organic compounds. Water helps facilitate these processes through movement within plant tissues and changes in cellular osmotic pressure.

Transpiration is another important process. This occurs when water moves from the plant's surface and evaporates through stomata, which are essentially tiny pores in the leaves. Transpiration contributes to the water cycle and helps regulate plant temperature, while also supporting photosynthesis by facilitating the movement of carbon dioxide into the plant.

Some plants have developed fascinating ways to reduce water loss. Prayer plants (Marantaceae), for example, may fold their leaves at night. They can also curl their foliage under intense light, helping reduce excessive transpiration.

There is no single watering schedule that works for every houseplant. Water requirements can change according to the plant's dormant period, season, amount of available light, and surrounding humidity.

A plant such as a Maidenhair fern (Adiantum) prefers moist and humid conditions. If your home becomes extremely dry during winter, it may require more frequent watering or additional humidity. Cacti, meanwhile, may need more water during their active summer period but can require little or even no water during winter, particularly from November through March.

If you tend to forget about watering, choose plants that are comfortable drying out between waterings. If you have your heart set on a plant that requires regular moisture, consider using tools such as watering spikes, plant nannies, or self-watering containers to provide a more consistent supply.

Air and Ventilation

Fresh air and circulation are often overlooked when people discuss indoor plant care, but airflow serves several important purposes.

My own home has fairly noticeable air movement, whether I intend it or not. I can actually feel the circulation inside, even when the windows are closed, especially during the colder months. Some newer apartments and buildings, however, are extremely well sealed. In certain high-rise homes, windows may not even open, leaving residents dependent on central heating and cooling systems.

Plants benefit from air circulation because airflow helps them exchange gases and supports transpiration. Plants breathe too, and moving air also helps remove excess moisture from their surfaces.

This is especially important for plants such as Tillandsia, or air plants. They may need frequent misting or soaking, but if water remains trapped on their leaves, rot can develop. Gentle air movement helps moisture evaporate and keeps these plants healthier.

Cold drafts are another consideration. During winter, I often move some of my plants away from drafty windows because many tropical houseplants cannot tolerate sudden exposure to cold air.

However, not every plant is bothered by drafts. I have found that my Hedera, Senecio, succulents, and even some cacti can tolerate cooler, draftier locations quite well. Always research the temperature tolerance of a particular species before deciding where to place it.

Humidity

Humidity refers to the amount of water vapor present in the air, and it is an important part of plant health that does not always receive enough attention.

For people living in areas with cold winters, indoor humidity can become particularly noticeable once the heating system is running. Dry indoor air can pull moisture away from plants more quickly, increasing transpiration and potentially creating a need for more frequent watering or additional humidity.

Many plants commonly grown indoors are tropical species that naturally prefer warm, moist environments. Our heated homes are often far drier than the conditions these plants would experience in nature.

During winter, indoor temperatures are commonly maintained around 65–70°F, or approximately 18–21°C. At those temperatures, indoor humidity can sometimes drop to only 20–30 percent. Such dryness can be uncomfortable for people as well as plants.

A moderate indoor humidity level of roughly 30–65 percent is generally more comfortable for people, while excessively high humidity can encourage problems such as mold and dust mites.

Fortunately, many tropical houseplants are comfortable within a moderate humidity range. A good humidifier can make it much easier to maintain a suitable environment for both plants and people.

Warmth

Temperature is another factor that can have a major influence on plant health, although it is often overlooked.

Different plants have different temperature preferences. Some varieties perform best in warmer environments, while others depend on cooler conditions at particular times of the year.

Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti (Schlumbergera) are good examples. These plants need particular combinations of cooler temperatures and darkness to encourage flowering from one year to the next. Other plants are much less tolerant of cold because low temperatures can interfere with photosynthesis.

Temperature is also particularly important during seed germination. Warmth, moisture, and humidity can encourage a seed to break open and allow a young seedling to emerge. Once it has developed, the seedling begins searching for light.

Many plants also benefit from a nighttime temperature drop. This is one reason I prefer to lower or turn off the heat at night. Plants need periods of rest as part of their natural physiological cycles.

If you consider natural ecosystems, temperatures commonly become cooler after sunset, even in desert environments. Providing some degree of natural temperature variation indoors can therefore be beneficial for many plants.

Soil

When I first began keeping houseplants, I did not pay much attention to the type of soil I used. I generally grabbed whatever standard potting mix was available and assumed it would work.

Fortunately, many plants are surprisingly adaptable. However, using the right growing medium can make a significant difference over time.

Soil has several important functions. It supports and protects the roots, helps keep the plant upright, provides nutrients, and allows air and water to reach the root system.

Hydroponic growing, which eliminates traditional soil altogether, is a separate subject, so for now the focus remains on conventional potting mixes.

You can create your own soil blend through experimentation, but I generally purchase potting soil from a local nursery, plant shop, or garden center. Commercially packaged soil is often sterilized to reduce the presence of pests, fungi, and mold.

Compost can also be useful, although it may attract organisms such as fungus gnats. These pests are usually manageable but deserve their own discussion.

Cacti and succulents often benefit from specially formulated succulent soil because they require excellent drainage and should not remain in constantly wet conditions.

Orchids and bromeliads are frequently grown in soilless mixes containing bark or other woody materials, which allow water to drain quickly. Some tropical plants, on the other hand, prefer a growing medium that retains moisture for longer and may do better in mixes containing topsoil and peat.

Older potting soil can eventually become compacted and dense, leaving insufficient air around the roots. Gardeners may loosen the soil manually or add materials such as perlite or vermiculite to improve aeration.

Terracotta pots are among my favorite choices because they are affordable and porous. Their clay walls allow moisture to evaporate and can improve airflow around the root zone.

Potting

Selecting a suitable container is important, although you do not necessarily need to repot a new plant immediately.

A plant can remain in its original black plastic nursery pot for quite a while. Many people simply place that nursery pot inside a more decorative basket or outer container.

The most important thing I tell new plant owners is to make sure the pot has a drainage hole. Excess water needs somewhere to escape, ideally into a saucer beneath the container.

I especially like terracotta planters for several reasons. Unlike plastic, terracotta is porous, allowing both air and moisture to move through the container walls.

Terracotta also gives you a visual clue about what is happening inside the pot. A white, chalky residue appearing on the outside can indicate the accumulation of mineral salts from hard water or fertilizers. When this occurs, the plant may benefit from being flushed with distilled water.

The porous nature of terracotta also helps moderate temperature changes. When nighttime temperatures fall, the clay changes temperature more gradually than some other materials.

And perhaps most importantly, terracotta pots are generally inexpensive, making them a practical choice for plant owners on a budget.

If terracotta is not your preference, that is perfectly fine. Just understand how your chosen container affects drainage, moisture retention, and temperature, then adjust your watering and placement accordingly.

When reusing a container that previously held another plant, thoroughly clean it first with diluted bleach or soapy water. This helps reduce the possibility of transferring pathogens or other problems to a new plant.

Choosing a pot with good drainage and, when appropriate, breathable material can make plant care considerably easier, especially if you tend to water generously.

Food and Fertilizer

Potting soil can provide plants with valuable nutrients, but indoor plants are growing in a relatively closed environment. Unlike plants growing outdoors, they have limited opportunities for nutrients and organic matter to be naturally replenished.

Eventually, the growing medium may need additional nutrients, and fertilizer is one way to provide them.

One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is assuming that more fertilizer automatically means faster or healthier growth. Too much fertilizer can actually interfere with nutrient absorption and may cause problems with the uptake of important elements such as phosphorus, which contributes to processes including protein production, cell division, and plant development.

Most houseplants do not need regular fertilization while they are dormant or actively resting. It is important to learn what type of fertilizer a particular plant prefers and how frequently it should be applied.

In many cases, fertilizer should be diluted considerably rather than applied at full strength. Developing a reliable fertilizing routine can take some practice. Keeping a calendar or written record of each plant's individual needs can make the process much easier.

Pruning, Grooming, Pinching, Thinning, Turning and Propagating

I usually devote some time each week to pruning, grooming, pinching, thinning, rotating, and propagating my plants.

If plants are allowed to grow without intervention, they can become untidy, stretched out, uneven, or sparse. Whether this is a problem is partly a matter of personal taste. I actually enjoy long trailing pothos and leggy succulents in many situations.

However, I sometimes trim my pothos and philodendrons, particularly those growing above the sofa in my living room. Cutting them back encourages a fuller and more compact growth habit.

Pruning also gives you an opportunity to propagate. Cuttings can often be rooted and grown into new plants, allowing you to create additional plants from the ones you already own.

Rotating plants is another useful technique. Plants naturally lean toward available light, so one side may grow more strongly than the other. By turning the container periodically, you can expose different sides of the plant to the light.

It is somewhat like turning yourself over while sitting in the sun so both sides receive sunlight. For plants, this can help encourage more even growth and reduce an overly crooked appearance.

Dormancy

Plants need periods of rest just as people do. In addition to daily cycles of activity and rest, many plants enter a longer dormant period during which their growth slows dramatically or almost stops.

The timing and length of dormancy vary depending on the species. It often occurs after flowering, although that is not universally the case.

Dormancy can also be essential for plants that are expected to bloom again year after year. Certain bulbs, for example, may require a period with almost no light, water, fertilizer, or warmth before they can begin another growth cycle.

Succulents also experience dormancy, and some genera may have either summer or winter dormancy depending on their natural growing cycle.

When you bring a new plant home, take the time to learn when it normally enters dormancy and what conditions it requires during that period. Understanding this natural resting phase will make it much easier to provide appropriate care throughout the year.